Užupis

The city wall has stood at Užupis Bridge for almost 300 years. It so happened that the Vilnius defensive wall, whose construction began in 1503, left Užupis on the outskirts, even though it was one of the oldest inhabited areas. However, there were two gates from Vilnius to Užupis – Bernardinai (which was next to the church of the same name) and Saviour’s Gate (Spasas), which is where we are. The name of the gate comes from the small Orthodox church next to it. It no longer exists, but the nearby Išganytojo (Redeemer’s) Street, which rises up the hill, will not allow you to forget it. Although there is no trace of the gate and we do not have precise data on what it looked like, it was painted by Juozas Kamarauskas in the late 19th century, using his approximate knowledge and the artist’s imagination.

Every year, the historical boundary comes alive – on 1 April, the inhabitants of Užupis celebrate their Independence (or more wittily ‘Neprigulmybės’) Day. On that day, border checkpoints operate on the bridges in Užupis, and to enter the ‘Republic’, one has to present the obligatory documents or… declare a matter of conscience. A smile and a good mood are usually enough, as the blue face on the sign by the bridge announces. The symbols on the right remind you that you are in a place where there is no rush, that there are many artists here, and that you must respect the water – the river surrounds Užupis on three sides. The name of the ‘Republic’, translated into four languages at the bottom of the boundary marker, reflects the other peoples who have historically lived here.

The bohemian aura that has become the district’s calling card is perhaps strongest on this bank of the Vilnia River. At the end of the Soviet era, the surrounding buildings were artists’ studios and apartments. After the restoration of independence, some of the premises were already in a state of disrepair, but this did not prevent artists from ‘squatting’ here and organising alternative festivals. The widespread creative activity finally gained official status with the establishment of the Užupis Art Incubator UMI in 2002. The ‘Galera’ Gallery is now open, and the outdoor space is constantly being filled with new works. Not only Lithuanians but also artists–in–residence from abroad work in the UMI building.

On 10 January 2019, the 100th anniversary of the death of architect and sculptor Antoni Wiwulski (Antanas Vivulskis), Užupis was decorated with a new accent. The bronze relief of a soldier’s greatcoat or watchcoat (a long military coat made of warm wool for guard duty) embedded in the wall reminds us why the talented artist left the world at the age of just 41. In 1919, Wiwulski joined the Vilnius Volunteer Self–Defence Squad, which defended the city against the approaching Bolsheviks. On the bitter night of 3 January, while on guard duty outside this house, A. Wiwulski gave his watchcoat to another volunteer who was freezing. The fraternal gesture cost the architect himself dearly – he caught a cold and contracted acute pneumonia and died a week later. Alfredas Muraška, a resident of Užupis, was so moved by this story that he decided to initiate something to commemorate Wiwulski. Vytautas Nalivaika created the sculpture, which was funded by the local community and private donors.

As befits any independent state, the Republic of Užupis has its own president, prime minister, ministers, ambassadors, army, festivals, and, of course, its own Constitution. It is joked that it is the most translated and quoted Lithuanian text in the world. How many silver-coloured plaques with the translation of the Constitution are there now? This number is constantly growing and is not exhaustive, so the task of counting it is up to you. We will find a plethora of translations, not only in popular languages but also in rare languages such as Samogitian, Latgalian, Sanskrit, Irish Gaelic, and Azerbaijani.

The most important square in Užupis has remained in the same place in a street network that has been historically shaped and unchanged for centuries. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the wooden Unitarian Orthodox Church of Saints Peter and Paul stood here; after it burnt down, a marketplace appeared, followed by chapels – the last of which remained until the 1950s. The square has always been the most popular meeting place for Užupis for another very pragmatic reason: it was the main well of the settlement. It was later replaced by a water column, and when the Republic of Užupis came into being, local blacksmiths rebuilt one based on old models. On rare occasions, such as on 1 April, it is not water that flows from it, but beer.

In 2001, the sculpture ‘The Egg’ was temporarily erected in the square to symbolise the rebirth of Užupis. At the same time, a sculpture of the Angel was already being created; donations were collected to finance its production, and small replicas of the sculpture were sold, which can still be seen in some of Vilnius’ interiors. The Angel was unveiled by the people of Užupis on 1 April 2002. It was said that he descended from the sky to finally chase away the winter with his warmth, as people had become angry due to the prolonged cold and being stuck in their houses. The Angel is the symbol of Užupis, the link between people on earth and paradise in heaven.

Only one place of worship has survived in Užupis, surrounded by the Vilnia River, and that is the tiny St. Bartholomew’s Church. In 1644, the monastery of the White Augustinians was founded on this site, and a complex of wooden buildings was erected to serve its needs. The name of Jonas Raiskis, who was the owner of the site at one time, or perhaps because of its magnificent beauty, led to the name of Paradise (Rojaus) Hill. The construction of the stone church began much later – only in 1778 when the oratory was built according to the design of the architect Marcin Knakfus; from 1823 to 1824, it was reconstructed into the church we recognise today (the tower was added in 1881–1882). After 1831, all the White Augustinian monasteries in Lithuania were closed, except for the only one in Užupis, but by 1845, there were no monks left, and the church was served by other visiting priests. In 1949, the church was closed and turned into a sculptors’ workshop by the Soviet authorities. Interestingly, both the Lenin on Lukiskes Square and the sculptures of Saints Stanislaus, Casimir, and Elena, which were returned to the facade of the Cathedral in 1993, were made there. In 1997, the church was handed over to the Vilnius Belarusian Catholic community. It is the only place in Vilnius where services are held in Belarusian.

This is one of the favourite leisure spots of the residents of Užupis. The square was formed at the fork of two roads: Krivių Street was the road to Antakalnis, and Polotsko Street was the road to Moscow and, of course, to Polotsk. For many years, a market was bustling here. There are at least three sites around the square that are worth noting. Firstly, the former synagogue building at Užupio g. 36 – today, it looks too modern to be ancient, but it was here that the large Jewish community of Užupis prayed between 1841 and 1941.

The building at Užupio g. 40 has been home to the ‘Tartle Art Centre’ since 2018. It is an impressive exhibition space for paintings, sculptures, and historical maps, which will be especially appreciated by those interested in the history of art in our region. The ‘Tartle Art Centre’ organises both private group tours and public tours for individuals.

As you walk along the edge of the square towards Polotsko Street, don’t miss the new inhabitant of the fence, the cat. This is the work of jeweller Viktorija Orkinė and sculptor Jonas Geltis. If you feel that you are plagued by troubles and fear, calm down – just scratch the cat’s ear, and all your troubles will disappear. After a dose of good cheer, let’s move on. By the way, we might come across another cat there too.

After the ban on burials in churchyards at the end of the 18th century, many cemeteries were moved to the countryside. In 1810, the Bernardine monks established a cemetery in a sparsely populated part of Užupis. Two unique three-storey columbariums in Vilnius were built on either side of the central chapel between 1810 and 1813, but after the Second World War, they completely decayed, and only the western one, restored in 1999, remains. The cemetery was used as an arms cache by the participants of the 1863–1864 uprising. It was officially closed in 1966. The Bernardine Cemetery has a number of preserved tombstones of great beauty, and many distinguished people are buried there: the legendary photographers of old Vilnius, S.F. Fleury and J. Čechavičius, the painters B. and K. Ruseck, the painter V. Kairiūkštis, the naturalists, the Jundzila brothers (J. and S.B.) who were naturalists, and Helena Janushevska–Dzeržinska – the mother of ‘Iron Felix’ (Felix Dzerzhinsky). It is believed that it was the fact that the mother of a famous member of the Cheka (Soviet Secret Police) is buried here that prevented the Bernardinai Cemetery from being razed to the ground and turned into a new area of apartment blocks.

Today, the cemetery’s tranquil aura is brightened by its lively inhabitant, a black and white cat. If you meet him, please be respectful – he even has his own Facebook page, ‘Bernardine Cemetery Cat’ (Bernardinų kapinių katinas’ in Lithuanian), where he shares his life updates.

At the end of Užupis, a wooden house of spectacular beauty but in deplorable condition has been standing for years. The fate of the wooden house, debated in the community, in the media and in classrooms, has finally been decided: it has been decided to preserve it, reconstruct it, and establish the Museum of Wooden City Architecture (MMAM). As you read this, you may not yet see the museum as a physical place, but it is already an active institution, and the revitalisation of the wooden building is being handled by meticulous craftsmen of wooden heritage. This house dates back to 1876.

As we continue to wind our way through the curving streets between the houses and the green hills, some of the most unexpected sights will be revealed – it seems like we have just been in a pulsating metropolis, and here we are in a haven of peace! Don’t forget to stop once in a while to admire what you see along the route from time to time.

In the summer of 2020, MMAM launched a competition, and Vilnius residents chose the most beautiful wooden buildings in the city. This Užupian beauty was voted in the top ten. Once a large part of the district’s landscape, wooden houses are now becoming a rarity, so it’s nice to have an example that is not only authentic but also well cared for. The building dates back to the second half of the 19th century, and its original purpose was residential (as it remains). By the way, Filaretų Street, which begins in Užupis and stretches up to the Rokantiškių Hills, reminds us that a couple of centuries ago, this picturesque area was particularly popular with the philomaths and philarettes led by Adam Mickiewicz.

Let’s finish our journey with panoramic views. The first stop is Gediminas Tomb Hill, which is 164 m high. You will climb it by following the path between Krivių g. 22 and 24. According to legends, Gediminas, the founder of Vilnius, was burnt or buried here. Whether this is true is not known, but it is definitely true that the place has a unique spirit. During festivals, a large number of members of the Ancient Baltic pagan community gather at the altar here. To take in the enchanting views, the nearby Altana Hill is easy to find. The panorama of Mount Altana is most enchanting at sunset when the whole Old Town seems to glow in front of the pink horizon. So try to plan your visit to be here at this time!