The ‘Belmontas’ route

Although today’s cathedral, designed by Laurynas Gucevicius, is in the Classical style, there are traces of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque in its walls. The cathedral’s dungeons conceal ceramic glazed tiles dating back to the time of Mindaugas and the oldest fresco in Lithuania (late 14th century) depicting the crucifixion of Christ. Duke Alexander, the wives of Sigismund Augustus, Elizabeth of  Austria (Habsburg), and Barbora Radvilaitė are laid to rest here. St Casimir, the patron saint of Lithuania and young people – the only Lithuanian saint – rests in the magnificent Baroque chapel.

The Šventaragio Valley lies at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia rivers. It should be noted that the old course of the River Vilnia used to flow around the location of the streets now named Barboros Radvilaitės, Šventaragio, and T. Vrublevskio, and it flowed into the Neris where Mindaugo Bridge stands today. It is said that Grand Duke Gediminas was hunting and stopped in this valley for the night. Here he dreamt of an iron wolf that was howling, and the Chief Pagan Priest, Lizdeika, interpreted the dream as a sign that Gediminas should build the capital of Lithuania here, and that is how Gediminas became the founder of Vilnius.

Once one of the oldest suburbs of Vilnius, it was once home to industry powered by the River Vilnia. Mills, canals, factories were a part of the daily routine of this place, as were the not always pleasant smells of leather workshops. During the Soviet years, when the capital was rapidly building residential districts, Užupis became a colourful crossroads of crime and bohemia – citizens looking for a quiet and warm life preferred to move to flats with all the mod cons of the time in the purpose-built neighbourhoods of Lazdynai or Karoliniškės. After the restoration of Lithuania’s independence, the picturesque but abandoned places in the city centre were occupied by artists, and their imaginative activities soon developed into… a separate republic.

The Tymo Quarter existed on the site of the market in the 14th – 19th centuries. It was then surrounded by the Vilnia and the loop of one of its branches. The natural conditions on the island surrounding it were favourable for leather-working, which is why the first workshops in Vilnius for the craft of ‘tymas’ (fine, soft leather) were established here. The quarter was also known as the place of the ‘red lanterns’. In 1960, the remains of the buildings in this quarter were demolished. The only reminder of the Tymo Quarter today is the Tymo Market, which has been here since 2008 and sells organic products on Thursdays.

Pūčkorių Outcrop is the most impressive and highest layered rock formation exposure in Lithuania. The height of the outcrop is 65 m and its width is 260 m. In 1974, this unique geological object was declared a natural monument. The outcrop offers a magnificent panorama of Vilnius surroundings: the meandering River Vilnia, the hills and forests of the Pavilnių Regional Park, Pūčkorių Manor, and the former cannon foundry. A little further on are the remains of the old dam of Belmontas Mill. The remains of the Polish army’s defence installations from the inter-war period have been preserved to this day, including various trenches and a reinforced concrete bunker near the Pūčkorių outcrop.

In a beautiful natural environment, on the land of Leoniškių Manor and Estate (known as a ‘folwark’), a stone water mill was built in the first half of the 19th century by the Frenchman Charles De Vim. Over time, Belmontas Mill, its auxiliary building, and the land were passed on to successive owners, but the mill’s function remained unchanged, and it continued to be used for grinding after the Second World War. The mill is often referred to as the French mill, in honour of its first owner. During the Soviet era, the building fell out of use and was abandoned; the water channel silted up. In the early 21st century, the mill complex was reconstructed into an entertainment and recreation centre.

In the distant past, the present territory of Markučiai belonged to Elena, wife of Grand Duke Alexander Jagiellon, as well as to the Kiszka and Chodkiewicz families and many other owners. In 1867, the estate was bought by Alexei Melnikov, an engineer of the Russian Empire. In 1875, Melnikov’s daughter Varvara got married and her father gave her Markučių Manor as a dowry. The first marriage lasted only two years. In 1884, Varvara married for the second time, this time to Grigory, son of the famous Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. In her will, Varvara instructed the Vilnius Russian Society to preserve the legacy of the poet Alexander Pushkin in Markučiai which became the impetus for the creation of the Pushkin Museum.

The observational viewpoint on Subačiaus g. offers a spectacular panorama of Vilnius Old Town. Below, you can see the small, cosy Kūdrų Park, formerly known as the Missionary Ponds. You can admire Užupis with its graceful St. Bartholomew’s Church, as well as the tower of Gediminas Castle, the Hill of the Three Crosses, and the spires of the numerous churches in Vilnius. The information board will help you navigate the rooftops and identify all the significant sights.

Vilnius Town Hall has been standing on this site since the late 14th century. The Town Hall became the centre of municipal government at that time, with guard rooms and quarters, a prison, rented shops, and the city’s main market in the square. Rebuilt after fires and other disasters, today the Town Hall has a classical appearance. The current Town Hall hails back to the late 18th century and was designed by Laurynas Gucevičius. During the reign of the Tsar, the Town Hall was transformed into a city theatre, where one of the most famous operas, ‘Halka’ by Stanisław Moniuszko, was premiered. During the Soviet era, the Art Museum was housed here. Today, the Town Hall is a representative building for events and concerts.